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Men's Cretan Costume

The traditional men’s costume of Crete dates back to the beginning of the 16th century. It consists of the vraka or breeches (βράκα), vest (γελέκι) and jacket worn over the vest called mitani (μεϊτάνι). The fabric is heavy wool felt to protect from the cold and the vest and jacket are embroidered with deep blue or black silk twisted cords. A white cotton or silk shirt is worn, and sometimes striped or plaid shirts. Black shirts are worn more recently but not for festive events like weddings, engagements, baptisms, etc.

The traditional head piece was the red fesaki (φεσάκι) which was folded over and had a black tassel. This was worn until about the early 20th century. After that the large headscarf called sariki was worn, wrapped around the head with the ends hanging on the shoulders at the front and back. More recently the sariki is made by crocheting black silk thread, with fringes around the edges, symbolizing the many years of Turkish occupation in Crete and the grief and mourning for the people lost in the explosion of the monastery at Arkadi in 1866.

The silver knife that is tied into the belt was introduced in the late 18th century. The handle of the knife is made in the shape of a fish tail and the sheath (called φουκάρι or foukari) is also made of silver and carved with traditional designs.

Source: Τσουχλαράκη, Ι. Η ΙΣΤΟΡΙΑ ΚΑΙ Η ΛΑΟΓΡΑΦΙΑ ΤΗΣ ΚΡΗΤΙΚΗΣ ΦΟΡΕΣΙΑΣ, Αθήνα 1997,1999 (Β’ έκδοση).
 
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Women's Cretan Costume, Ziponi and Dress

There are three types of women’s clothing worn by the women of Crete, traditional to specific regions and time periods: “Ziponi and dress” (η φορεσιά με ζιπόνι και φουστάνι), “Sartza” (η Σάρτζα) and “Kouda” (η Κούδα).

The “Ziponi and dress” dates back to the beginning of the 17th century and was worn throughout the island, especially in the western part of the island. It consists of a dark wool jacket (ziponi) which is elaborately embroidered with gold thread. The ziponi, which can be made in different colors, has a large opening in front that is either V-shaped or rounded. It may have half sleeves or long sleeves that are slit down the arm and fastened to the ziponi with loops at the shoulders. A long silk skirt is worn with a silk blouse and silk belt, as well as an apron. A silver knife in a silver case, the basalaki (μπασαλάκι), is tucked into the belt, worn by engaged or married women, a gift from her fiancée. The head covering is a silk veil with gold trim and gold coins.

Source: Τσουχλαράκη, Ι. Η ΙΣΤΟΡΙΑ ΚΑΙ Η ΛΑΟΓΡΑΦΙΑ ΤΗΣ ΚΡΗΤΙΚΗΣ ΦΟΡΕΣΙΑΣ, Αθήνα 1997,1999 (Β’ έκδοση).
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Women's Cretan Costume, Sartza

“Sartza” dates back to the mid-17th century and was worn throughout Crete, especially in the central part of the island. It is sometimes called “Anogheia” for the village in central Crete. It consists of the sartza, which is the back skirt-apron that is worn, ziponi, long silk blouse, wide pantaloons that billow at the ankles and are made of a gauzy fabric, a wide belt with the basalaki, front apron and crimson colored head scarf.

Source: Τσουχλαράκη, Ι. Η ΙΣΤΟΡΙΑ ΚΑΙ Η ΛΑΟΓΡΑΦΙΑ ΤΗΣ ΚΡΗΤΙΚΗΣ ΦΟΡΕΣΙΑΣ, Αθήνα 1997,1999 (Β’ έκδοση).
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Women's Cretan Costume, Kouda

“Kouda” also dates back to the mid-17th century in eastern Crete. The name Kouda is derived from the Italian word “coda” which means tail. When the skirt is pinned up in the back it drapes in such a way that gave it the name kouda (tail). Kouda consists of the skirt, ziponi, long silk blouse, wide pantaloons that are richly embroidered and billow at the ankles, silk belt, apron and “salpa” (σάλπα), the long white cotton head covering.

Source: Τσουχλαράκη, Ι. Η ΙΣΤΟΡΙΑ ΚΑΙ Η ΛΑΟΓΡΑΦΙΑ ΤΗΣ ΚΡΗΤΙΚΗΣ ΦΟΡΕΣΙΑΣ, Αθήνα 1997,1999 (Β’ έκδοση).
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